SAARC Rally Virus hits Bhutan!

Cyrus Dadachanji & Mohit Midha
20^th March, 2007

It was a frosty morning in Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan. As we struggled into our cars at 7.00 a.m. it dawned on us just how cold it had been. Our Safaris had their windshields caked with a thin layer of ice, but it was no match for the vehicle's powerful heater. Exactly 30 minutes later, the Honourable Prime Minister of Bhutan gave a short speech, posed in our midst without any security and flagged us off on our onward journey towards the border town of Gelephu.

It's been six days since we hit the road. This morning, our route took us through thick forests graced with majestic Bruce and Birch trees, as we headed for Dorchu La - Bhutan's highest pass. At a height of 9700 feet, the pass offers spectacular views of the snow capped eastern Himalayas. At the pass, one can also see a collection of 108 chortens or shrines, arranged in an equidistant fashion on a small mound. This memorial was built to honour the heroic suppression of an insurgency by the late king of Bhutan, Jigme Sigme Wangchuk. The number 108 is significant for Buddhists as there are 108 beads in the Buddhist prayer bead chain.

Our Bhutanese friends never cease to amaze us. Even at this remote outpost, they managed to line up a full breakfast spread at Dorchu La. From this high point, we started our journey towards the plain. As we wound our way down, the lush green Coniferous forests gave way to sub – tropical ones with a thicker canopy. After a while, we stopped at Punakha Dzong, a fort that is till today the home of the spiritual leader of Bhutan. Located at the confluence of two rivers, this imposing palace with its curved tiled roofs and stucco walls is a sight to behold.

We carried on from Punakha to our lunch halt at Srirang town. The convoy picked up speed and the drivers let their steeds barrel down country roads clinging to the hill side. The HAM radio was an invaluable tool to warn vehicles of impending danger. Sitting in the co-drivers' seat, it felt as though I was part of some surreal arcade ride, with trees flashing by me! Over the next two hours we repeatedly descended and ascended in the valley, until we arrived at our lunch destination at Srirang.

Our visit had catalysed an otherwise sleepy town into a hotbed of activity. A three kilometre long stretch of children with hand made country flags greeted us. At the lunch venue, we were treated to a display of folk culture, with a difference. As the girls of a local school gracefully danced they were joined by two high spirited SAARC rallyists, Iqbal and Mahesh. To the delighted squeals of the girls in the audience and loud applause all around, they tried in vain to keep in step with the dancers. Then Tony and Priya from Bangladesh joined in, along with some members from both Pakistan and Indian teams. It was as if the SAARC promise of strengthening ties was being lived out on this school field in Bhutan.

We spent a truly magical evening in Gelephu, as the guests of the Governor of the region. After delivering a short welcome address, he invited us to enjoy a cultural performance being set up for us. Among the many dances performed, my personal favourite was the fun-filled Yak Dance. Two dancers carrying a giant Yak skin above their heads pranced about, teased other dancers and delighted children of all ages.

Before the entertainment section could close, the Governor got up to sing a Hindi song He ended to a round of applause, when Mahesh took off on the same note and sang a different song with the words "Bamabai ki gaari, India se hoke, Bhutan ki aur chale." To the tune of 'Neele amber ke tale'. Where words could not work, music was forming a bond. The grand finale this evening was a 'Tashi Delek' dance or Good Luck Dance where 100 rallyists and an equal number of Bhutanese gracefully circled a giant bonfire. There’s no doubt about it. We're an infectious lot. So the other countries on our route had better be prepared for an outbreak of the SAARC Rally Virus!

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