Mumtaz and the Metro
Cyrus Dadachanji & Mohit Midha
2nd April 2007
Today is the 19th day of our rally. It's also the first time that we will stay in a city for 2 nights, since after we left Bangladesh over two weeks ago. Suddenly activity levels slow down and the rally participants start catching up on lost sleep, laundry and maybe even a spot of sightseeing.
After a leisurely breakfast, we clambered into our air-conditioned buses and drove down to The Metro Station at Patel Chowk. The Delhi Metro is the city’s pride and joy. Criss crossing the city, this world class railway system has a combination of underground and elevated sections. As we swished though the city in air-conditioned comfort, the sheer convenience of the Metro System became immediately apparent to us. Everything from the design of the Metro Railway to the announcements is on par with the best in the world. Photography is prohibited in the Metro stations, but as ambassadors of SAARC nations, we were given the special privilege of being allowed to click at will. What next, we wonder?
We arrived at Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in Asia a little before eleven. The first thing that struck us was the Monday morning traffic. Unfortunately, the police could not close down all of downtown Delhi for a 100 sightseers. So, we contended with a wailing siren and slow pace until we reached the mosque. Built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1644 at a cost of almost 100 million Indian Rupees, the mosque with its three giant domes dominates the Delhi skyline. The mosque has a huge courtyard that can accommodate over 10,000 people at a time.
It's not the statistics but the sheer majesty of the Jama Masjid, combined with the delicate artwork all around that makes it so unique. The mosque is a sandstone and marble marvel with a pulpit carved out of a single block of marble. It has three gateways, four towers and two slender 130-ft high minarets that grace its impressive. Jama Masjid is also one of the most revered Muslim shrines in Asia as it is home to relics like the hair of Prophet Mohammed and a chapter from the first Holy Quran. Above the main pulpit an inscription in Arabic says 'Build a house for Allah, and Allah will build a grand home for you in Paradise'. A combination of the spiritual force that pervades the mosque and a sense of brotherhood that inspired a few fellow rallyists of differing faiths to kneel before the main pulpit and fold their hands in prayer. A message that needs to be spread across the world.
From the Jama Masjid, our next stop was the historic Red Fort. The answer to the question 'What next?' was shortly answered. The Red Fort is closed to public on Mondays, but it had been specially opened for us. As a result, we were the only tourists in this magnificent complex. Built over 11 years in the 17th century, this might citadel cost over 10 million rupees to construct. The Red Fort is as much a fort as it is a complex of palaces, gardens and fine pavilions within a 2.4 kilometre long fortified perimeter. The Fort includes Royal Baths with channels for water from the Yamuna, coupled with facilities to perfume the water and even heat it if necessary.
A walk around the various monuments in the fort reflects fine taste and a love for the good life, which the Mughals are famous for. In fact, once upon a time, there was a palace called 'Mumtaz Mahal' built for Shah Jahan's beloved wife Mumtaz Begum on the banks of the Yamuna river. The palace with streams running through it, marble walls with inlay work and other embellishments of precious stones, alas is no more. But Mumtaz Begum and Shah Jahan’s presence can be felt in every corner of the Red Fort.
This afternoon, we were free to do as we wished. I went out for a cup of coffee with a friend and that's when the reality of life without a pilot car ahead of you hit me. It was short lived though, as we were soon back in the convoy, headed for India Gate. Normally, vehicular traffic is banned in the area of India gate. But then nothing about this rally can be termed 'normal'. So, we cruised right up to India Gate in style, SAARC Rally flags gaily fluttering from our windows. The India Gate and Martyrs; Memorial looked resplendent bathed in a soft golden light.
We were the guests of honour at a ceremonial flag off by the Hon'ble Chief Minister of Delhi, Ms. Sheila Dixit. Each of us felt that this was a truly special moment, as the cars slowly passed the Chief Minister's podium. The icing on the cake was a performance by a popular local singer, Kailash Kher and his band 'Kailasa'. Just as the party really kicked off, we were given the signal to head back to our cars. Apparently our hostess for the evening, Ms. Dixit was waiting for us back at the hotel! We were here on a diplomatic mission and sometimes, one has to forgo enjoyment to do one's duty. Well, there will be other performances, but who knows about chances to make history. Right now, we were enjoying every moment of it. And this ultramodern, but historic city was leaving no stone unturned to make sure we felt that way.
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