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Leaving the Land of Human Tunnels
Cyrus Dadachanji & Mohit Midha
18th March, 2007
Today is the fourth day of our adventure across SAARC countries and our last day in Bangladesh. It's been an amazing experience so far. In fact, Bangladesh has set such a high benchmark that as far as welcoming us is concerned, that every country has a tough act to follow.
This morning, we set off from our hotel at 5.30 a.m. only to be greeted by a large bunch of flag waving children at that unearthly hour! It's amazing just how far the citizens of this country will go to delight us! On this heady note, we headed for the excavation site of the ancient capital of Pundernagar. All that remains of this 2500 year old settlement is a long citadel wall measuring over a kilometre on each side. A visit to the neighbouring museum revealed a world of ancient coins, sculptures, implements, weapons, antimony jewellery and earthen ware ranging from the 4th Century BC to the 19th Century.
After a brief visit to the ancient capital, we continued on our way to the Kantajeeu temple. This three storied temple was build over 48 years (1704 - 1752) in the 18th Century. This is one of the most ornate temples in Bangladesh, covered with terracotta tiles with stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, well as tales from the royal court. The cultural programme held by the local organisers included a Bharat Natyam concert as well as a rendition of 'Hum Honge Kaamyab' in Bengali and English! We were also swamped by the local volunteers armed with notebooks for autographs and comments. On our way out of the temple we encountered the all familiar 'human tunnel' of well wishers. The scene was magical with the local populace dancing in circle and beating drums. We had to inch our way out of the temple complex, shaking hands and being bathed in flowers, as we departed.
After a lunch halt at Rangpur and an equally colourful cultural performance, we were on our way again. As we moved towards the Indian border, we encountered a path of road that tossed us around like an amusement park ride, simply because it had been unevenly surfaced, The Safaris took it in their stride with the suspension soaking up the undulations. The landscape also changed from lush green files to wheat plantations, lined with banana trees and ponds for irrigation. While we were enjoying the view, our convoy came to a grinding halt.
The radio crackled to life. We were informed that there was a 'human tunnel' that was closed in front of us. We were half a kilometre from a railway bridge which is also used for road traffic with a road made of wooden sleepers over the railway track! But the assembled crowd was in no mood to let us pass without the local official shaking our hands and enthusiastic children showering us with flowers! This was the longest human tunnel we had encountered till date.
This was the icing on our welcome cake. The train had been delayed so that our convoy could pass the one vehicle bridge and get welcomed by another shower of petals on the other side. On the way to the border, we sped through county roads with hazard lights on, as we passed one long line of well-wishers after the other. It was as if the entire country was out on the streets to welcome us.
The border crossing from Burimari to Chengrabandha was uneventful as our advance team had taken care of all the formalities. On the Indian side, we were escorted to a special ground by the local police. Dancing girls with 'thalis' and diyas welcomed us to the VIP Pandal. A local minister from West Bengal state Mr. Adhikari and the District Magistrate of Coonch Bihar district welcomed us, while our country team leaders were feted with ceremonial shawls. On the Indian side, it was very much like Bangladesh. Speeches, colourful dance performances and delicious sweets. We left the function and drove to our hotel only to be welcomed there by drumming and dances at 10 pm! While we left the Land of Human Tunnels, Bangladesh with a heavy heart, it seems that India is all set to give its neighbour a run for her money!
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