Sri Lankan Serenade

Cyrus Dadachanji & Mohit Midha
10^th April 2007

Today is the first day of the final driving leg of the rally. For the last four days, we have not driven at all, but enjoyed the luxury of being driven around or walking around markets, gazing at Colonial buildings and savouring our meals at a leisurely pace. This morning, we were ready to leave at 7.00 am, when were informed that a security check was essential. A steady drizzle coupled with a thorough security check ensured that we left the hotel almost an hour later than scheduled. Irritation levels ran high as this was the first time that we had been frisked and our baggage searched on this journey. Then again, we realised that it was for our own safety, considering the tension filed scenario in the region.

The convoy snaked its way out of the hotel and lined up along the seaside promenade. It was a dark, cloudy morning with rain clouds looming ominously overhead. At precisely 8.00 am, the Prime Minister, Mr. Wickremanayake flagged off the first car with ceremonial pomp and pageantry. Marching bands, dancers, stilt walkers and waving children all added to the magic. A wailing siren led the convoy through the city, and we headed for the coastal road to Galle. This is probably one of the most picturesque drives of our journey. The road skirts the beach for miles, swerving away from the seaside to rejoin it again. An endless chain of palm trees lapped by aquamarine green waters kept us company until we reached our first halt at a stupa at Kalutara.

Kalutara is a scenic riverside location and home to one of Sri Lanka’s revered Buddhist temples. As we entered the temple premises, shorn of footwear or headgear, the serenity of the location and the presence of a spiritual energy enveloped us. Each of us made a floral offering before proceeding into the dome of the stupa. A short chanting session at the stupa energised the team and we were off again.

Our journey in Sri Lanka will cover only around 900 kilometres in three days. Predictable, a number of stops have been organised along the way, to make the drive more enjoyable and diverse in its attractions. After a rest halt at a beachside resort, we proceeded to the town of Galle, almost the southernmost point of Sri Lanka. Galle is best known for its huge 17th Century fort. Built in 1633 by the Portuguese, the Galle Fort with its imposing ramparts and clock tower covers a 33 acre area. Although no structures stand within the fort premises, one can see tunnels leading to the sea, giving one a sense of history. As we ascended the slopes to the fort, dancers on stilts led the way. The entire fort was a scene of festivity, with dancers, craftsmen, coconut vendors and musicians, who seemed to make one forget that this was a serious defence and administrative establishment over the centuries. Sated with numerous helpings of delicious coconut water, straight from the coconut, we took off for our lunch halt at Welingama Bay.

Today, we have spent most of the time in the sea. Whether it was a refreshment break, a lunch break at the erstwhile fishing village of Welingama, or a relaxing tea break at Tangalle the sea was a constant and calming companion. The opportunity to enjoy a cup of black tea sitting in a garden by the beach, as a cool sea breeze caressed us ranks very high on my list of memorable moments.

Our last halt of the day at Kataragama truly embodied the multicultural spirit of the rally. An ancient religious complex with a temple, mosque and Buddhist monastery flanked by forests and lakes. Since we arrived here after sunset, the true expanse of the complex could not be gauged, but the fact that it took us at least 10 minutes to walk from one religious edifice to another gave some indication. The Katargama complex is a haven of peace, where all the communities on the rally partook of an 'aarti' at the temple, a chanting session at the Buddhist stupa and paid their respects at the mosque. Today, Sri Lanka was in her element, serenading us with the sounds of the sea, clanging bells, Buddhist Chants, and a Muezzins call. A harmony that will live on in the ears and hearts of each the participants for years to come.